Confessions of a DIY Mechanic

Friends Riley and Marc lend a helping hand. Insert joke here involving lube and a shaft.

Illusion versus reality in doing your own maintenance.

In my Haynes manual, the photos show a latex gloved hand removing a clean bolt. In YouTube videos, you see the guy work through a five-hour job in 15 minutes. Everything comes off easily, and he’s always got the tool he needs (yes, sometimes it’s a she) to get the job done. After watching several hours of these videos and rereading several times the section of the service manual for your job, you go in full of confidence, maybe even bravado. “That looks easy enough,” you think.

But it never goes to plan. Somewhere along the way—it could be Step 1, it could be Step 20—something goes wrong. Usually multiple things go wrong. In YouTube videos, these snags get edited out. Ah, the magic of video editing! In the Haynes manual, they’re working on a brand new bike, one that’s never seen rain, or grime, is not corroded and contains no rust. Their biggest challenge is lighting the bike for the photographs.

“You’re so lucky, you can do your own maintenance,” a club member once said to me. There’s a perception amongst my riding mates that I know what I’m doing. Only my wife knows the reality, and now you, dear reader, will too. I’m pulling back the curtain on home maintenance. The following are some truths of The Hack Mechanic.

1. Bolts have a life of their own.

“You’re going to have your moment of glory, aren’t you? Come on, you know I’m going to win in the end. You might as well give up now. It’s only a matter of time. Why don’t you just save us both the trouble?”

I’d hear my dad muttering these things from beneath our old family car as he struggled to remove a bolt. Yes, he personified his adversary, and I understand why. Sometimes it feels like a piece of rusted steel has not only a consciousness but also a will, and its purpose in life is to thwart you.

And he was right. You do win in the end, although the price in time, sweat, and tears is sometimes a lot. I once watched an experienced mechanic on YouTube describe the steps he took in trying to remove a swingarm pivot pin. He tried (of course) Liquid Wrench, and heat, but that was just getting started. He rounded sockets, specialty removal tools, tried liquid cooling, a 6′ cheater bar, tried drilling it out, etc. etc. In the end, he cut the swingarm off. Yeah, he won.

I had the same problem when I removed the pivot pin on my 650GS. I got the nut off okay but the bolt wouldn’t come out. I tried heat and a drift, but it wouldn’t budge no matter how hard I whaled on it. In the end, I laid the bike on its side, poured a concoction of Liquid Wrench and PB Blaster into the cavity and left it overnight to seep down into the bearings, then used a ball peen hammer upside down as a drift and a sledge hammer to knock it out. I still remember the elation when I saw it first budge.

Once off, those bolts like to hide. Once I “lost” an M10 x 100mm engine mount bolt. That’s not a little bolt. I never did find it. Okay, my workspace (a garden shed) is not ideal, and this leads me to my second truth.

2. I spend more time looking for things than working.

You drop a nut and hear it clunk a fraction of second later. You have to judge based on the sound and the length of time it was falling whether it’s in the bike or on the ground. You look into the bike beneath where it fell and imagine the probable trajectory, based on engine components. You get out your extendible magnet and start fishing around, but that never works. You should know by now that you have to see it first; vision is our primary sense, unlike, say, my dog, who uses his nose to find things he needs. If that fails, you begrudgingly have to start removing components, digging deeper into the engine until the nut (or bolt) reveals itself. “Ha ha, you caught me!” it seems to cry, but you’ve long grown tired of that game.

Sometimes the part fortunately misses the bike and lands on the floor, but that’s little better. Parts like to jump, and bounce, and roll, escaping under the winter tires or into the gardening equipment or worse, right out the shed and into the grass. I’ve found parts nowhere near where I expected them to be, 10 feet from where they fell. They manage to get me literally prostrate, face down on the floor (or grass) in a submissive position like before the Emperor or a god. I have to be sufficiently humbled before they too will reveal themselves.

If it’s not a part I’m searching for, it’s a tool. My tools are in my workshop, which is on the second floor of my house. I try to anticipate what I’ll need for a job and haul everything down to the shed, but inevitably I need to fetch something and so I climb. (My wife doesn’t like me walking up the carpeted stairs in my boots so, as an added annoyance, I have to kick them off first.) She says I must be as fit as I am because somedays—I kid you not—I have to climb those stairs 20 times.

Once there, I start rummaging through toolboxes that are on the floor. This involves spilling tools onto the floor because they are heaped to overflowing and the tool is always at the bottom and it too likes to hide. If the sought-after item is not in a tool chest, I have to factor in another 30 minutes because my workshop is the playspace of entropy.

There is a method to this madness.

Basic physics. There is a general order to the contents but, without exerting a countering force to tidy (which I do from time to time), the order deteriorates to chaos. I have a vision of the workspace of my retirement home. It will have a clean cement floor, florescent lighting, a tool cabinet (as opposed to chests), a peg board, a lift, and heat! I’ve told my wife a heated garage or workshop is my number one requirement for our retirement home.

My current workspace. If it starts to rain, I’m done for the day.

3. Every job requires the purchase of at least one new tool.

The second requirement of our retirement home is that it is within 15 minutes of a Canadian Tire. That’s because I’m forever “hopping in the car” and “zipping up” to the Canadian Tire for a tool. My wife hates the sound of those words. In my latest job, I needed a T50 Torx socket and, later, an oil syringe. Add another hour onto that job (if you can find someone to open the socket cabinet at CT). Amazon is pretty good in a pinch, but then add another day onto the job (if you have Prime). Of course, the more tools you have, the more chaotic your workshop, and mine’s long been over-capacity.

Sometimes the tool is expensive. Then you have to factor in time for domestic diplomacy, and that can take days. “Don’t you know someone who has one that you can borrow?” Who hasn’t heard those words from a much wiser and logical wife? And so you go, cap in hand, to your various mechanical friends, apologetically asking if they have a certain tool, feeling emasculated as if your tool (i.e. the primal tool) is lacking or “absent.” And don’t even get me started on renting.

If you are a home mechanic, there’s a balance sheet constantly running live in your head: cost of tools, parts, and time compared to cost of getting it done at the dealer. If there’s an expensive tool needed for a job, you’re cutting into your profits, so to speak. And if it takes five times as long as getting a professional to do it, you’re cutting into your season, which in Canada is short. This leads me to my next truth, which you’ve probably already guessed.

4. Every job takes five times longer than expected.

Yes, five times. Minimum. A job that takes 90 minutes in theory will take all day in practice. That’s working time, not including searching time, domestic resolution time, and purchasing time. For a big job that may take a professional half a day you might as well clear your week. Often a job feels like it’s two steps forward, one step back. Sometimes it’s one step forward, one step back, which is nowhere. That’s because you are learning as you are working, or as the poet Theodore Roethke said in “The Waking,” “I learn by going where I have to go.” He wrote that in an villanelle, which is a form that repeats lines in the first stanza throughout the poem and creates the effect of always coming back to the beginning in a cyclical manner that is sometimes reminiscent of working on a motorcycle.

Sometimes this back-stepping is not your fault. For example, in my last job, I had to take the swingarm off the bike. To reinstall it, my Haynes manual says to install the rear shock absorber before the Paralever arm. Only once I’d done that, I realized you can’t install the nut on the front mount bolt of the Paralever arm because the shock is in the way! So I had to remove the component I’d just successfully reinstalled, and felt good about, in order to continue.

I love Haynes manuals, but this one had a rare mistake.

And if you strip a bolt, or break a bolt, you have to add mental health time to step away from the job until you are ready to continue. This is why I’d never be a professional mechanic; I would end up working for less than minimum wage.

5. I make a ton of mistakes.

This is the big reveal. Yes, to err is human, and I guess I’m more human than most.

I once didn’t install properly the impeller gear of the water pump on my 650GS and it fell off at a rally after a rocky hill climb, leading to the temperature light coming on. I lost the weekend waiting for new parts to arrive. On another occasion, when I replaced the rear shock after servicing, I didn’t drop the subframe correctly and the brake line rubbed on the rear tire and wore through. When I felt the rear brake going spongy, I knew something was up. I’ve installed tires backwards, wheels flipped (“Why am I getting an ABS error?”), a rear wheel askew (forgot to check the alignment marks on the rear swingarm) and, multiple times, forgot to balance the wheel after changing a tire (it usually comes to me in bed after the wheel is mounted). That’s just a few of my many mistakes over the years.

In my most recent job, I decided to remove the rubber boot on the swingarm to give it a good cleaning, only it was impossible to reinstall it afterwards without breaking the retaining clip and having to remove the swingarm, both of which I did. I also lost a spacer on my engine crash bars. I remember thinking as I removed the bars that it was odd that there were only three spacers for four bolts, but instead of pausing and reflecting a moment on this red flag, I continued on, rationalizing that the mounting points must be asymmetrical. The spacer was probably in a recess of the frame and fell out when I rode the bike to warm the gear oil before draining.

Fortunately, these mistakes have only cost me time and money and nothing more. My wife is not going to like reading this and I might lose my 2-up travel partner for this confession, but she no doubt already knows. Sometimes at my nadir she hears me berating myself and calling myself a hack mechanic, and she, bless her, corrects me and says I’m not and instead praises me for my persistence. At times like that, I know I married the right woman.

But here’s the thing I’ve come to see: even the pros make mistakes. We’ve all heard of someone who’s had a car wheel fall off after having their seasonal tires changed. A riding friend of mine had her front caliper fall off and rattle around in the fender and forks after picking up her new motorcycle. Fortunately, the wheel didn’t lock up and she was able to steer safely to the side of the highway. And just recently, when I got the BMW back from my dealer after being repaired from the accident, I noticed that the rear handlebar mount bolts were super loose. Yes, to err is human, and we are all fallible.

Is it worth it?

Yes, it’s worth doing your own maintenance, despite the frustrations, the time, the mistakes, and the unnecessary added expenses.

It’s worth it because you save money—a lot of money. I just finished the major service on my BMW and a friend said he had the same work done at the dealer and there were 10 hours of labour on the invoice. With parts and tax, it was $2,000. Ouch! Mine cost less than $200 in parts, and that’s including the damaged rubber boot.

It’s worth it because you learn about the bike and gain knowledge. This time when I put the swingarm back on, I double-checked the routing of the ABS sensor wire and noticed I didn’t have it right and was able to correct it before the test ride. More importantly, if I encounter problems in the field, I hope that I’ll be able to fix them, and that’s important if you’re an adventure rider going to remote places.

It’s worth it because, contrary to Confession 5 above, generally speaking, when I’ve done it, I know it’s done right. I’ve heard so many stories from people who’ve had unsatisfactory work done by professionals, who are working on the clock. I don’t take short-cuts, and I go the extra hour or mile to do it well. I guess what I’m saying is that I trust myself to do a good job more than a stranger, despite my inexperience. Do I have issues of trust? Absolutely!

But mostly it’s worth it because there is a satisfaction unlike no other when you ride the bike afterwards without issue. You’ve taken something apart and put it back together again, and now it’s running better than ever, the product of your own hands and mind. It’s not always easy, despite popular belief, but it’s always rewarding.

Do you do your own maintenance? Why or why not? Do you have any confessions to add? Drop a comment below.

Boss, the workhorse, with valves checked, new alternator belt, spark plugs, gearbox oil, and final drive oil. Driveshaft splines were also lubed. Engine oil and filter will be replaced before winter storage.
Photo credit: Marilyn Gillespie. My wife’s selfie from our ride yesterday.

The Major Service

Getting ready for the new season this year meant a little more than adding a few farkles.

When I bought my 2013 Triumph Tiger 800XC in May 2022, it had only 14,500 kilometres on it, despite being nine years old. In the following two years, I’ve put another 34,000 on it. I’ve done basic service during that time, like changing the oil, coolant, brake fluid, and cleaning the air filter. I’ve also changed the plugs. But it was time for some major service.

Last fall I did the dreaded valves, swingarm and rear suspension bearings, and cleaned the starter motor. This spring I’ve fixed a problem with the shifting mechanism, cleaned and lubed the steering head bearings, overhauled the front forks, and made a few mods to get it ready for the BDRs. It’s been a long process, but it’s finally ready for the new season.

Valves

It’s the job everyone loves to avoid, and I did too. In fact, when I bought the bike, the dealer said they no longer recommend checking the valves at the manufacturer’s recommended 20,000K because, more often than not, when they get in there at that mileage, the valves are fine. I guess if you’re paying the dealer $1000+ to check them, it’s bittersweet when they don’t find anything out of spec. I was happy to wait. My buddy who rides a Triumph Scramber 1200 XE has never checked his and he’s got I think now over 78,000K on it. “If they’re slappy, they’re happy,” he said, although I always thought you don’t want to hear the valves. At any rate, with now over 48,000 kilometres on the Tiger, it was time to get in there and see how happy they are.

All the intakes were fine, but all the exhausts were tight, some significantly. Here are my calculations. Sorry about the grease.

Highlighted is the amount out of spec. I’m using metric.

As you can see, all the intakes were spot on at 0.15 (specs are 0.10 – 0.20). The exhaust specs are 0.325 – 0.375, so ideally you want them at 0.35. Some of mine were 0.20, so .15mm out of spec. I’m glad I didn’t wait any longer or I might have started causing damage to the valve seat. Live and learn: sometimes there’s reason behind the manufacturer’s recommendations.

An egg carton works well for keeping all the buckets and shims organized.

You want the same bucket to go back on the original valve, so keep any happy dogs with long tails out of your workspace. Nobody likes removing the cams, but just make sure you’ve got it locked at top dead centre and turn the engine over several times by hand once you get it back together to make sure you didn’t slip a tooth on the timing gear. I almost did because I didn’t put enough tension on the timing chain while torquing down the holder. (You have to remove the tensioner.) So you have to find a suitable wedge of some kind to manually tension the chain while tightening. The first two (2!) times I torqued down the holder the chain climbed a tooth.

Timing marks should line up parallel to the crankcase on the inside.

Thanks to MuddySump for his excellent videos. I was following my Haynes manual, but it’s always good to watch someone else do it first, especially when that person has the same bike as you and is a licensed Triumph mechanic! Once I got everything buttoned back up, I checked the valves again and they are now all spot on.

It’s always a little unnerving starting the bike back up again afterward, but it fired right up. I’m hoping the bike will run a little easier now with less tendency to stall.

Starter Motor

A known issue with the Tiger 800, at least the first gens, is a weak starter motor. There is a tendency when the engine is hot for the starter to fail. I’ve had it happen to me a few times. You stall the bike and the starter is reluctant. I’ve managed to fix it by keying off and on, but it was getting worse. Many guys swap out the starter with Rick’s and I considered it, but since I was already down to the throttle bodies, I figured I’d lift them to access the starter and give it a good clean.

I took it apart and there was a lot of carbon dust in there, and some discolouration on the armature. Some 1000 grit emery paper cleaned everything up, including the shoes. The bearing was fine, and I’m hoping I’ve breathed another few years at least of life back into the OEM starter.

Swingarm and Suspension Linkage

The swingarm bearings take a lot of abuse down there right in front of the rear wheel. Even if you aren’t doing water crossings, they’re going to get water and grit and grime thrown up at them. And when there’s crud or corrosion, you won’t feel it as you will with steering head bearings. I remember when I finally did this job on the 650GS, one of the bearings was in very bad shape and I had a bugger of a time getting the pivot bolt out due to the corrosion. This is one you want to do on the recommended interval, and it’s one of the easier ones so why not? You aren’t opening up the engine, just taking the rear wheel off, unclipping all the wiring from the swingarm, then removing the pivot bolt.

Thankfully, it wasn’t that bad this time, but I still left it a little too long. There was some discolouration on the bushings, but the bearings looked fine, albeit missing some grease. I cleaned everything up as best I could using 1000 grit emery paper and repacked the bearings with waterproof grease.

It’s always a good feeling when you restore these crucial components.

Shifting Mechanism

Problematic selector arm is top left. Centralizing spring is blue, indicating it’s been upgraded.

On the last ride of the season last year, the Tiger started being reluctant to downshift. I noticed it as I pulled away from the house and came to the first stop sign. I was heading to Vermont and would have turned around, except I was leading a club ride and there were people counting on me, so I continued.

My first thought was that the clutch cable needed adjustment. It’s normal for those to stretch over time and need to be tightened. But adjustment didn’t help, and as the day continued, the problem got worse. I somehow managed to finish the day, but coming up through Smuggler’s Notch wasn’t much fun and I was happy to get home. That was the final ride of the season. I decided I’d use the remaining nice weather to do maintenance but before I could get to this job the snow arrived, so it had to wait.

I store my bike in an unheated shed, so working on it over the winter wasn’t an option. As you can imagine, my curiosity nagged at me all winter. Was it the clutch, the shifting mechanism, the gearbox? Some research online revealed that there are some known issues with the shifting mechanism on this bike. There’s a pin on the shifter spindle that holds the centralizing spring and it’s known to break. When that happens, the shift lever doesn’t return to centre, ready for the next downshift, but flops down. You can still shift the bike, but you have to lift the lever first with your foot.

That didn’t appear to be my problem because, while there was a little play in the lever, it wasn’t flopping down. But I wondered if it was starting to break. Also, there was a recall to upgrade the centralizing spring, which is known to fail, and I didn’t know if my bike had the old or new spring. I also wondered if the problem was as simple as a worn clutch.

At the first warm day, I finally got in there to see what is happening. To get to the shifting mechanism, you need to remove the clutch. That was fairly straightforward, and the plates looked good. In fact, the stack measures 42.25mm and the tolerances are 41.54 to 42.54, so I’ve only burned .29mm of my clutch over 48,000 kilometres. I’m happy about that.

I had some trouble removing the bushing and bearing but with a friend’s help, we got them and the basket out. What we noticed is that on a downshift, the shifter arm slips off the pins of the detent wheel. A close inspection of the arm revealed wear on the respective pawl.

Wear in the corner of the pawl where it engages with the detent wheel pins. This arm is under tension from a spring (behind, out of view) and it’s also possible that the spring was fatigued.

There has been a redesign on this part as well as the detent wheel that engages with it. I decided to change the whole spindle because Triumph has also redesigned the problematic pin for the centralizing spring. Here are comparisons of the crucial parts, old (on top) versus new.

Dear reader, do you care? If you are a mechanical engineer or just a mechanical nerd like me, maybe you do. If you have a 1st gen Tiger 800, you should. These are the wrinkles that were ironed out sometime during production. I’m glad to have the stronger parts in my bike, and it’s shifting great again. Here in Canada, the spindle unit is under $200 and the detent wheel and selector arm come as a kit for under $100, so the hit wasn’t too bad.

Forks Overhaul

I don’t think the fork oil or seals have ever been changed on this bike. I’d never done inverted forks before. They are a little more difficult and require a seal driver. (You can’t use plumbing ABS pipe to drive the seals because the outer tube is in the way.) Figuring this would not be my last bike, I went with the adjustable kind that will work on a variety of bikes but are a little more trouble to use.

Everything came apart easily enough, once I bought a set of thin spanners. (Every job requires at least one trip to Canadian Tire.) There isn’t much room between the spacer tube and the top cap, and you have to get a wrench in there to hold the lock nut while you remove the cap. That was the only snag on the disassembly.

Laying everything out in the order it came off.

The bushings were discoloured with wear, but I didn’t want to wait for new parts so cleaned them up as best I could with fine grit emery paper. For the new seals, I decided to go with SKF because I’d read good things about them. Thanks to Triple Clamp in Toronto for stocking these. A neat trick I learnt from Tusk is, when using those tricky adjustable fork seal drivers, use safety wire to avoid driving your fingers instead of the seal. Nice!

The only weirdness of this job was that the amount of oil listed in my manual was way off. It said 619mL for the XC and 107mm from the top of the tube, but I had to pour out about 100mL to get the correct height. Yes, I drained all the old oil, and yes, I pumped the damper rod several times to dispel all the air when adding the new. I asked my dealer about this and he said they only use the height measurement. When I tipped the old oil into a measuring beaker, it was about 1L for the two forks, so with loss, 519mL sounds about right. Anyway, fresh oil, seals, and socks will help the front end this summer.

Steering Head Bearings

This one too had never been done. You can see in the image above that there isn’t much of the factory grease left in there. For this one, I didn’t use the waterproof general lithium grease but bearing grease. The only difficult aspect of this job was avoiding paying for the Triumph tool for accessing the head-stock. Instead, I used a C-spanner and Ryan F9’s tip on using a luggage scale to get the correct torque. The initial preload once you get everything back together is 40Nm, then you back it off and tighten the bearings to 10Nm, which is a little over 7ft/lbs. My C-spanner is about a foot long with a hole at the end of the handle, so all I had to do is convert Nm to ft/lbs.

After having the forks and triple-T out, I needed to align everything again. Thankfully, Delboy’s Garage just put out a video on how to do that.

Fuel Tank Breather Tube Fix

In my last post, I talked about how I ended up with about 3 litres of water in my fuel tank after a failed water crossing. In the post, I presented the theory that the water was sucked up from the tank breather hose when the tank had negative pressure. I considered rerouting the breather tube to keep it out of potential water, but my friend Mike came up with a better solution. While servicing his Africa Twin, he noticed that the tank breather on that bike has a Y-fitting with a length of hose staying high on the bike and the other draining down.

My buddy Mike’s Africa Twin. He’s pointing to the Y-joint with the piece of red wire. The short tube fits into that little cup, presumably to keep it clean. That’s the battery area.

So I picked up a set of assorted vacuum T-connectors and a length of rubber tubing at Canadian Tire and did the same on the Tiger. I cut the tank breather tube and inserted the T-connector, then added the extra tubing. I haven’t decided yet where it will terminate but for now it comes up the siderail and loops across under the fuel tank and is tucked in the other siderail. I think I will shorten it and add a loose end cap like on the AT.

If you have a Tiger and want to do this mod, just be sure to cut the right hose. There are two leading out of the tank. One is the drain tube and one is the breather. The drain tube has a check valve on it so doesn’t allow water to come up. The breather tube is the larger of the two where they attach to the tank.

A Few Mods for Dirt

Fender Extender

I saw MotoBob add a front fender extender to his Triumph Tiger and thought it would be a good modification, given the dirt I plan to ride this summer. It keeps a lot of mud off the front header pipes and radiator, not to mention rain water off your pants. He used the Pyramid Plastics version, but my dealer, Montreal Moto, actually had a Triumph one in stock so I snapped it up.

Some extenders come with sticky pads, but I was advised to use silicone. I decided to make things easy for myself and remove the fender. Sounds reasonable, right? I could have done this mod just by removing the front wheel, but I decided to give myself some extra room and removed the fender. It was three bolts on each fork, so how hard can it be, right?

Little did I know that someone had used red threadlocker on the bolts, and one snapped off in the fork. Perhaps someone at Triumph can explain to me how a front fender is a permanent install?

So I lost a day there. I drilled it out and was retapping it when I got distracted and broke the tap inside the old bolt. Ugh! What a mess, going from bad to worse. I bought some carboy drill bits (after some research on what the hardest, sharpest drill type is), but even a carboy bit wouldn’t touch the tap. Fortunately, my friend Mike, whom I’ve already mentioned a few times, came to my rescue. (He was the guy who refinished the bodywork of my old GS.) He has a proper workbench on a cement floor and drove the tap out with a punch, and then we could re-tap. The thread was a little loose from the abuse it had taken, but he showed me a trick to strengthen it with some 5 minute epoxy. Apply the epoxy like threadlocker but coat the bolt in WD40 so it doesn’t glue inside. Thread it in and after a few minutes remove the bolt and let the epoxy harden to the old threads. Neat! When I reinstalled the fender, I used blue threadlocker.

Lowering Footpegs

My Fastway Adventure footpegs give you the option to mount them standard or lowered. I mounted them standard so I wouldn’t have to adjust my foot levers, but with the dirt coming up, I thought I’d swap to the lowered position. Fortunately, Fastway provide a tool to use to press the pin out. Then you simply press it back in from the other side—from the top of the peg.

Unlike the fender extender and most other jobs, this one went smoothly and I had the pegs back in again in no time. It was easy to adjust the height of my brake lever; just undo the lock nut and screw the adjuster into the master cylinder. Because I was screwing in, I didn’t even need to bleed the brake. And when I put the shift lever back on, I rotated it slightly from its previous position. This set-up lowers my pegs 8-10mm, which may not sound like much, but I suspect will be significant for knee comfort on long days and lowering centre of gravity when off-roading. The downside is that the pegs are a little closer to the road, but I don’t think I’ll be dragging them anytime soon. Or so we’ll see.

Before I reattached the brake lever.

Sidestand Extender

Another mod for the dirt. I’ve always gotten by without one of these, although it’s sometimes a pain to find a stone or stick to use instead when you are forced to stop in mud or soft grass. I went as far as to install a Touratech one on the GS once, but it lasted all of one ride. I got hung up on some rocks and when I got home I noticed I had an extender no more . . .

Needless to say, I was skeptical about buying another from Touratech, but different bike, different design. Besides, I got this one half price. One of the benefits of riding a discontinued bike is that if you keep your eye out you can sometimes snag accessories at discontinued prices. We’ll see how long this one lasts.

Now I remember what I don’t like about sidestand extenders: they interfere with the centre stand. Oh well, I’ll just have to put the sidestand down first before using the centre stand. No big deal, and maybe it will help stop my centre stand from rattling so much. Or maybe now there will be two stands rattling together. Anyway, I’m not wedded to this accessory and we’ll see how long it lasts.

Oil Filter Guard

The Outback Motortek skidplate for the Tiger 800 does not protect the oil filter. Some would say that’s a design flaw, but I suspect OM did it that way so you can change the oil without removing the guard. (They put a cutout in the guard for the sump plug.) But it does leave the oil filter a little vulnerable at the front of your engine. Triumph make a push on metal guard. It’s a simple design with indents that engage with the filter for an interference fit. Easy to remove when it’s time to change the filter, which I will do after running the bike a bit this spring. The engine’s been open for some time as I worked on everything, but with oil being so damn expensive (it costs me now over $80 for an oil change), I will just change the filter. Anything that might have strayed in will be captured in the filter.

It’s been a long haul but I think I’m ready now for another season and another 50,000K. I took the Tiger for a test ride yesterday and it’s shifting smooth again and the clutch feels great. The engine is running well, and I’m happy to be back on the road.

Here in Montreal, it’s Easter Monday and I think I can safely say we’ve had our last snowfall. Crocuses are pushing up and there are buds on the trees. Geese are returning and everywhere the signs of spring are upon us, including the sound of motorcycles back on the roads. For Canadian riders, it’s the best time of year. I wish everyone, wherever you are, a safe and enjoyable 2024 season.

Please leave below any comments you have and consider following. What mods and maintenance did you do in the off season? What are your plans for the coming season? I love hearing from readers, so drop me a line.